![]() ![]() Hognose snakes will strike at prey from any direction, so offer prey from long, soft-tipped tweezers. Hognose snakes are more visually-dependent than some other snakes, so you may need to simulate “lifelike movement” (just wiggling it around will do) before the snake will strike. You can check the temperature with your temp gun. The body temperature of a mouse is similar to a human’s, so you’ll want the prey to be about 98-100☏ before offering it to your snake. ![]() Then about 15-30 minutes before feeding, stick the prey in a BPA-free plastic bag like a Ziploc and submerge in warm, almost hot, water. This allows it to thaw slowly in a cold environment, which discourages bacterial growth, same as how you’re supposed to thaw frozen meat. If you are using frozen-thawed prey (recommended), thaw it out in the fridge the night before feeding day. However, it has been observed that hognoses seem to respond better to warm prey items, so it’s possible that the warmth disperses the scent better. ( “Strong response to anuran chemical cues by an extreme dietary specialist, the eastern hog-nosed snake (Heterodon platirhinos )” by William Cooper and Stephen Secor, 2007). Hognose snakes rely on their sense of smell in order to help them find prey, not a heat signature. We recommend Layne Labs, Perfect Prey, and Reptilinks. Also, buying in bulk saves on shipping fees, which are expensive. PRO TIP: Buy frozen/thawed feeders in bulk if you can, because you’re more likely to get quality prey from online suppliers and reptile expos than from your local pet store. Human-grade cuts of meat or bits of cooked egg can make a nice treat, but they should never be offered regularly because they’re simply not nutritious enough. If you’re concerned about your snake getting parasites from wild-caught amphibians, freeze them before feeding. Harvest in more woodsy, “natural” areas if possible. If you choose to catch wild amphibians to use as prey, beware of harvesting in areas where they may have been exposed to pesticides or herbicides, as these can poison your snake. Here are some non-rodent ideas for feeding your hognose: Hognose snakes fed primarily rodents are more likely to suffer from obesity and related health problems than those fed a more natural diet. While young mice can be used to feed your hognose snakes, these calorie-dense feeders aren’t the best for your pet’s health, and should be used as part of rotation at most. ![]() (“Ontogenetic shifts in the diet of plains hog-nosed snakes (Heterodon nasicus ) revealed by stable isotope analysis,” by Andrew M. Birds and mammals, however, are extremely rare. Wild Western hognoses eat primarily toads, but stomach contents studies reveal that they also eat frogs, salamanders, snakes, lizards, reptile eggs, birds, mammals, and insects on occasion. ![]() However, if your snake starts to gain too much weight, scale back on the number of prey items per feeding. Simply wait until the hognose has finished swallowing one prey item, then offer another. For this reason, it’s better to offer multiple small meals rather than one big meal. If it is too large, your snake may regurgitate, which is extremely stressful for the snake and can be dangerous to their health. As the snake grows, gradually increase the size of the prey. Prey items should be the same diameter as the snake’s head, no larger. Hognose snakes don’t seem to “expand” as well as other snakes, possibly because they’re not constrictors and had to adapt to smaller, slower prey. Berry recommends the following feeding schedule:īeware of overfeeding your snake, as this causes obesity and organ damage! For convenience and the safety of your snake, it’s best to offer frozen/thawed prey.ĭesigner-Morphs Western Hognose Snakes by John R. Hognose snakes aren’t constrictors like most of the snakes you’re familiar with, which means they’re not typically strong enough to wrestle with a live feeder rodent and win. ![]()
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